Router Table Build.

I just got a new plate for making up a custom router table in the mail. I've needed a new table for a long time now. Hopefully I will be able to get out and put it together this weekend.

If I had my way my dream table would have the following: a 3' by 5' table with plexi-glass over the bit drawers, bit drawers (obviously under the plexi), adjustable fence with a step fence option, external height adjustment, mitre gauge, pinioning, built-in circle jig, attached vacuum and work light.

The table I build will probably be a bit simpler than that, but maybe I can design it in a way that I can slowly add those luxuries over time. I'll let you know how it goes.

Too Cold!

Man, has it been a long time! We have been so busy over at the store, Woodtoolstore.com. Anyway, I'm here to complain about the weather. It's cold! Up here where I live winter is already looming. I know, I should be used to it. After all, winter is no surprise, it comes every year. Still, I don't like it.

To add to the downside of winter is the simple fact that I can't go fiddle in the garage. If you are anything like me you have dozens of little projects on the go. Things you could slip away and do an hours work on here and there. Well, there is no more of that. My garage is not heated. If I want to go and do some woodworking I know have to jump in the van and go all the way to the shop. Not really a quick slip-away.

I guess the answer is to find some projects in the house. That should be easy. I'm sure my wife has a thousand things she needs done. Well, I'd better go and make it 999.

Keep your tools sharp.

I was walking through a local lumber store trying to match up a piece of trim. Finally, I got some assistance from an employee. I handed him my small sample that I brought to make sure I had a perfect match. After holding it a few moments he commented that most people don't sand their end cuts.

I was briefly bewildered. When I figured out what he was saying - that the cut on my sample was extremely clean and smooth - I informed him that I didn't, in fact, sand it. He went on to ask me how I managed to get such a perfect cut then. I smiled, shook my head a bit, and let this youngster in on the most basic of woodworking tips. I use a good blade of the appropriate type for my work (in this case a finishing blade) and I make sure it is sharp.

His response was priceless, "Really, is that the key?" I wanted to slap him upside the head. Yes, believe it or not, using the right tool for the right job and making sure it is in good condition is the most important key for getting the highest quality results out of your woodworking.

After this unbelievable exchange I thought it would be appropriate to send out a note to all of you to remind you to keep your tools sharp.

Long gone are the days when you would hand sharpen your own saw blades. Therefore, make sure you are using a fresh blade. If you are looking for blades we sell them over at the store: Woodtoolstore.com. Beyond saw blades, remember to frequently sharpen your chisels, and your drill bits. We even offer an inexpensive drill bit sharpener over at the store.

Have fun, keep your tools sharp, and work safe . . . oh yeah, that reminds me of another reason to keep your tools sharp; a sharp tool is a safer tool.

Perfect Angle Cuts on the Miter Saw

Have you ever mad an angle cut on the miter saw, perhaps just a simple 45, and when you went to use it you would swear the saw didn't cut straight? The angle was off, or even looked curved. Guess what, you were probably right.

There is an important thing to keep in mind when using a power miter saw. The rotation of the blade puts pressure on your wood. When the saw is square the rotation of the blade pushes the wood directly back into the saw. However, as soon as you tip or turn your blade the saw no longer pushes perpendicular to the back fence or the table. It is now pushing at an angle. This makes the stock want to travel along the fence a bit. The sharper the angle the more prominent this becomes. Without care your angle cuts will be off.

So what is the solution? First, most saws come with a built in clamping mechanism. Securely clamping your piece in place is the best bet. Yet, I find these clamps awkward and time consuming. The solution that will bring you the most mileage is much simpler. Hold the piece firmly, take your time, and make sure you have a sharp blade in your saw. A proper grip on the work piece will ensure that it won't carry. Also, remember that the faster you cut the more pressure the saw will put on the wood. Never ram your saw through your work. Take your time and let the saw do the work. Finally, an old dull blade radically increases the angular pressure on your work. A good sharp blade will ease its way through the wood. With these simple practices you can ensure that your angle cuts are truer every time.

Easy Patterns and Templates

Today I offer you a great trick for working with extremely precise cuts like scroll work and detailing from a template or drawing. Whether you are working from a purchased plan or are creating a fancy design from scratch for a customer, sometimes one of the hardest things to do is to copy out the details onto your work piece. So, I am going to share with you a great way to do this.

If the pattern you want to replicate on your work comes from a book or pattern pack, or even downloaded off the Internet, you can quickly transfer that image to your wooden stock by doing the following extremely simple steps. Take your pattern to your local library and photocopy the pattern on their laser copier. If you have a laser printer you can even do this at home. Make sure you use the scale feature to make it the right size. If you need you can also flip the pattern in the process (most photocopiers can do this). Once you have your copy take it back to your woodworking shop and lay it, face down, on your stock. Grab your iron (yes, the same one you use on your clothes) and on a low heat iron the back of the paper. The iron will melt the ink and transfer a perfect copy onto your wood.

If working from something you have done by hand, you may need to scan it into your computer and fix it up a bit with a graphics program. MSPaint is good enough for most projects. I have used MSPaint to make patterns, enlarge them, or to make perfectly symmetrical patterns from a half image. For those with more computer mastery you can download a great free program called GIMP. It is like MSPaint on steroids. (I use GIMP as my primary art tool on my computer.)

Using this photocopy and iron technique you can make multiple perfect copies of any pattern. The only thing left is a careful hand on whatever tool you plan to use to cut it out, whether it be a scroll saw, a jig saw or any other machine..

The Woodworking Holiday and Wainscotting with a Biscuit Jointer

I just got back from my summer vacation. If you have been following the blog then you probably noticed the big gap in posts. It was a good break. Yet, as so often happens, I went on holiday from this job only to find myself working at another.

A friend of mine pulled me in to do some wainscoting on his house. It wasn't a big job and it didn't take long. What is of interest though, is that this is the first time I have done wainscoting with a biscuit jointer. Last time I did some wainscoting it was of a style that didn't accommodate the use of a biscuit jointer and the time before that was before the biscuit jointer was a 'common tool'.

I like the biscuit jointer. I always have. From the first time I saw it used, to my first cheap jointer, to the top notch machine I wield now. I like it. It is a good machine that makes very specific woodworking practices super easy.

This was no different. The wainscoting was a classic rail and stile pattern with a cove trim and flat oak panel. Simple, elegant, and beautiful. From the word 'go' I knew I was going to use the biscuit jointer on this project. I made some design decisions around the fact. When it finally came time to do the project I was absolutely delighted. The biscuit jointer came through for me again. It made quick and accurate work of both the end joints on the rail and stile and the corner face joints.

If you are thinking of putting some wainscoting in your home I highly recommend getting your hands on a biscuit jointer. You can always get one from us at Woodtoolstore.com

Country Style Mortise and Tenon

I've been out and about this summer, traveling and holidaying. Yet, wherever I go the woodworker in me comes out. I can't walk into a room without looking at every piece of furniture. I can't go into a kitchen without sliding open a drawer a bit to see if they are dove-tailed. I look at every building, every wall, for architectural ideas and inspiration.

The other day, while I was looking at furniture instead of what I was supposed to be doing, I saw an interesting set of chairs. They were obviously homemade. I didn't particularly like them - they were a peeled bark/stick style construction. Every piece was twisted and wild. I prefer smooth clean lines. To each his own - I guess. However, what caught my attention was the jointing style on the piece.

It was an extremely well crafted mortise and tenon joint. Its precision in contrast to the visual effect of the overall piece really drew my eye. The mortise was nothing more than a a round hole drilled through the legs. The cross branch was reduced and precisely turned to produce the tenon. The tenon then extended right through the mortise. After all that, an extra hole was drilled perpendicular to both (along the 3rd axis) and a dowel driven through.

What you need to realise is that the joints were in no way square. The twisted branches met at all sorts of oddball angles; anything but square. Sure, the mortise is easy enough - line them up, mark the angle, and tip your drill press. It was the tenon that had me. They were just too perfect. There was no way they were carved by hand, the fit was too tight. I couldn't see someone spinning a stick that twisted on a lathe. And, all the tools that I could think of that were normally used in these situations required a far more 'finished' stock. I had to ask . . .

The answer reminded me of why I love old farmers. He had made his own specialty tool, and it was the ultimate in simplicity. It was little more than a piece of pipe. He had sharpened one end with his angle grinder to create a cutter and welded a couple of wings on it that slid in a jig to keep it all 'square' (and by square he meant anything but square). First he cut the mortise. Second, he would carve down the tenon with a draw knife just to get rid of the majority of the excess. Then he would line up the branches and make a pencil line on the tenon stick. Next, he eyeballs the line in the jig groove the pipe wings slid down as he clamped it nicely into his vice where he would proceed to pound it with a hammer!

He demonstrated, I smiled. The chair was ugly, the joint was pretty, but it was the homemade tool that really floored me.

Sale Closing Soon!

Our Independence Day sale is ending soon. Visit Woodtoolstore.com now to save on woodworking tools.

Forstner Bits

A long, long time ago, when I started working with wood there was no such thing as the Forstner bit. If it existed, nobody had heard of it yet, at least not around here. In those days there were more limited options for boring. With the exception of some oddball tools you really only had 3 choices for wood boring. The hole saw, the auger bit, and the spade bit. They all worked, make no mistake, but they all had disadvantages in certain situations. My point is not to bad mouth perfectly good tools, so I am not going to list those disadvantages, I just want to talk about the Forstner bit.

I remember the first time I saw one; I was watching good old Norm Abram on the New Yankee Workshop. He pulled our his forstner bits and all the world went into slow motion. I was enthralled. I wanted some - and now. But, I couldn't find any. It would be years before I actually had a set. Yet, it was worth the wait.

Forstner bits are extraordinary tools. They cut beautiful holes and they do so with almost no point mark. It is possible to drill 90% of the way through a piece of wood and not mar the other side. These bits cut true, smooth, and quickly. They, are self guiding and square up nicely. Additionally, they come with a strong and hefty shaft.

If you haven't used a Forstner bit, what are you waiting for? They are awesome!

Independance Day Promotion

To celebrate the birth of America, our store is offering a special sale for the first two weeks of July. Visit Woodtoolstore.com and check out our great prices on woodworking tools like this brad nailer

Summer Projects - Outdoor Living!

Sweet summer is here. The days are long and warm. How, oh how, does a woodworker spend his time? After all the summer chores are done, I like to turn my attention to woodworking projects that reflect the glories of the season. Here are some summer project ideas for my fellow woodworkers.

Porch swings, chaise lounge chairs, and wooden benches . . . patio and yard furniture are useful, fun (and quick) to build, and can really set off a yard.

A bird house. If you have kids, this is a great project to involve the kids with. They will have a ball, you can teach them a bit of the craft, and it occupies some of that time they have on their hands. Of course, when I say bird house, I mean four stories of architectural wonder for our fine feathered friends.

If you have the yard space make a gazebo. This is the sort of project you can tell your wife that it is 'for her'. Add decorative touches and planters and such things and the female in your life will be grateful that you made her such a beautiful gift. As a bonus feature, a gazebo needs some patio furniture!

Another project with and for the kids is a tree house or play house. Just check for local by-laws and restrictions first. It would be a shame to build a beautiful tree house and then be forced to tear it down by a regulations addicted city council. It would also break the kids hearts. Permits are cheap, do it right and get one.

Of course, now might be the best time to finish the winter project that got set aside :).

Finally, if you are anything like me, one of the best parts of woodworking is shopping for tools. Visit our store Woodtoolstore.com and have a great summer and build some great summer projects.

The Most Important Tool

One of the most common questions I get asked by friends, work associates, and fellow woodworkers is, 'What is the most important tool for a workshop?' It really is a good question. For someone who is just starting a woodworking shop, or is looking to upgrade some tools it is good to know where to invest their money.

By far, the most important tool for any workshop is the table saw. There are very few projects that do not go through the table saw. Of course, the table saw is one of the biggest ticket items for the workshop. If you can't afford a table saw you can sometimes make do with a circular saw and a cutting guide. But, this is really just a poor substitute that can only do half of the things you need it to, and it does those poorly.

After the table saw, the most important tool you can own is a good router. Preferably, with a router table. The router can be used to cut dadoes, substitute as a jointer, function as a circle cutter, and about a thousand other jobs as well.

Finally, I don't think I've ever made a project that didn't need clamps. I use clamps to hold pieces while I work, I use them in dry fitting, I use them for glue up, I even use them to hold other tools out of the way some times. I don't think a woodworker can have too many clamps.

With these three item, a table saw, a router, and a good selection of clamps, any decent craftsman can get to work.

Summer Jobs

Let's face it, as woodworkers, we sometimes do jobs that aren't exactly fine furniture projects. Sure, we would all love to spend every minute crafting some marvelous piece, but the reality is that projects come up that are more along the line of construction than woodworking. I call these jobs instead of projects. They are jobs even if they are something I need to do around the house. Just because I'm not getting paid doesn't mean I don't consider it a toilsome grind . . . that is to say, a job.

So, what job is on my mind? Re-roofing the garage. The shingles are a mess! I would love to hire an outsider but, why pay for someone to do what I, myself can easily do. Roofing is one of those things that crosses my mind every time summer rolls around. I don't know why. It just seems that as soon as the weather heats up my eyes start traveling to rooftops.

I don't want to do the garage. No one ever wants to climb up on a roof and toil away. Yet, what better time is there but now. Plus it gives me an excuse to buy another tool. There is a very nice Air Coil Roofing Nail Gun on sale at the store right now as part of the summer promotion. I wonder if they put this on sale just for me. Everyone at Woodtoolstore.com knows that I need to do the garage. Are they helping me out? Or, are they just tempting me?

Anyway, summer is here and that means all sorts of jobs are rearing their heads. How about you? What nasty jobs do you have to do?

Summer Sale

Father's day has come and gone. Things were busy over at the store. Tools make such great gifts for Dad.

However, with the passing of Father's day, summer has arrived. That means we are beginning our summer promotion. Go visit Woodtoolstore.com for great prices on woodworking tools.

The Metric System and the Woodworker

The metric system . . .

There are only three countries in the world that don't use the metric system Myanmar, Liberia, and the United States. An odd group of countries to say the least. I'm not overly concerned with the first two. No offense, but they don't land on my woodworker's radar. As a wood worker what I am concerned with is the American reality. America being non-metric has significant ramifications for woodworkers.

Now I have to say, I get the metric system. I understand, I really do. It is a far, far superior system. It is better built, it is easier to use, it makes more sense, it makes math easier, it makes all the sciences easier. It is certainly far less confusing.

The first problem is, I think in both systems. I measure height in inches and feet not centimeters but big distances come in kilometers (unless I'm on the farm where the roads are all 1 mile apart). I have no idea what a pint or a quart are; litres and milliliters are so much easier. I go for pounds before kilograms, I go either way with tonnes and tons, but absolutely I prefer grams before ounces . (I mean who thought it was a good idea to have ounces be a measure of weight and volume then make cups and pounds have different totals of ounces in them.) Fahrenheit is a ridiculous joke compared to Celsius. Yet, I'll take an acre over a hectare (heck I had to look up how to spell hectare). It causes no end of confusion in my life. Fortunately, almost everyone around me is in the same boat of split system thinking.

The second problem, and the one we as woodworkers need to deal with, is the fact that our profession/hobby is in the midst of system crossover. It has been years since I have seen a 3/4" sheet of plywood that was in fact 3/4". Now I wouldn't mind as much if it actually said 19mm (or whatever it is), but it is always labeled as 3/4".

I find that many of my tools are no longer the appropriate size. For instance, I can no longer use my router and 3/4" bit for making dadoes. Even my dado cutter needs little cardboard spacers to make it work. I've run into off sized dowel pins, I've had wrong length screws.

Maybe I am just complaining here, but I just find it to be annoying. There is no easy solution here. The whole world is not going to revert to an archaic and inferior system just for my woodworking convenience; nor would I want them to since I like the metric system in general. More and more, we are going to see imported tools and wood. Thus, an American can't just sit isolated. American wood workers using one set of items the rest of the world another. America seems to have decided that switching is just too hard. Suggest to your average American that they should just swallow the pill and make the switch and you will near get shot. I really don't want to carry two complete sets of tools. Help!

What is a woodworker to do . . .

Cutting Dados

Every woodworker, at some point builds 'cabinets'. They may not be true cabinets, but the follow that same basic process. They might be built in units, bookshelves, armoires, or actual cabinets. In any case, the heart of the process is pretty much the same - build a box.

These boxes are all built with the same techniques. They may get dressed up very differently but they start the same way. The root of this box construction is the dado joint. For those who don't know what a dado is, it is simply a groove cut into your stock that receives another piece of stock. A dado needs to be straight, square, and precisely the right width.

Over the years I have used and continue to use a variety of methods to cut my dadoes. Depending on the project, different methods offer different advantages. I will go through the 3 most common methods I use.

1) Table Saw with a stacked dado cutter. A stacked cutter in the table saw works well. Essentially, you pile up several blades and chippers on the arbor of your saw (see my article on a cheaper alternative to an expensive dado set here.) With careful measuring and a few test passes you vary the head width until it is precisely the width of the stock your work will receive. This method works well with pieces going through the saw lengthwise. Most cupboard size cabinets are easy enough with this method. However, I have always found it awkward to cut dadoes perpendicular to a long piece. Bookshelves are a good example of long narrow boards that are difficult to cut this way.

2) The stacked dado on the radial arm saw. Built in the same manner as with the table saw, putting the dado head cutter on the radial arm saw is the opposite component of that method. The radial arm saw is fantastic for cutting dadoes across a narrow but long piece. The drawback is that it has a limited cut length.

3) For those without the radial arm saw or even a dado head cutter, there is always the go to tool of the workshop - the router. The router is the most versatile dado cutting tool of all. It easily makes stop dadoes (dadoes that don't reach the edge), and can be quickly set to cut any depth. The use of a clamp on straight edge and some very careful measuring produces excellent dadoes.

There is a drawback to the router though. When I was younger, all wood was precisely the same width. Plywood came in 3/4, 1/2, 5/8, etc . . . this is no longer true. In recent years the thicknesses have started to come slightly undersized. I suspect this is due to the influence of the metric system. This does, however, leave us woodworkers with a problem. If we use our 3/4" router bit to plow out a dado, then it will be slightly too large. There are really only three solutions: go buy a metric router bit, if you can find one; or make two passes with an undersized bit. The first is difficult to do because the bits are difficult to find. The second requires an enormous amount of care and precision. The third solution is to cut a dado undersized and then trim down the stock going into the dado much like a tenon. Since this is sometimes done anyway, it can be a simple process, however, when it is unnecessary it can be a tiresome amount of extra labor.

Those three methods make up about 95% of the dado I cut. There are some other ways, including the old fashioned chisel, but these are so rarely used that I don't think they are worth detailing.

Good Woodworking.

Lathe: toy or tool?

Alright, I admit it, more often than not when I use the lathe it is more of a toy. The call for turned pieces is rare for most woodworkers. sure, there are some folks that specialize in turning, but that is not me.

Most of my projects are cabinet pieces. Bookshelves, wall units, entertainment centers, heck even furniture pieces like hutches and dressers. All of these tend to follow the more box-like construction of cabinet making. Even my fanciest projects (I'm about to start on a grandfather clock) rarely use the lathe.

Not that I never use the lathe. I've had projects requiring at least some turning. I'll often throw in a turned element to dress up a project. For example, I usually turn the upright on the armrest of benches and seating. I once made a deacon's bench where I turned the uprights to match the stair posts in the clients home.

By for the most fun project I have ever had was for the Government of Alberta. I replicated two copies of the official mace of Alberta for their information services and mock parlament. Of course, this project had all sorts of unique and challenging components, but a big part of it was turning the maces. It was a great job! I loved every minute.

These sorts of projects, though, are the exception. In spite of this, if asked what my favorite woodworking activity is . . . I will invariably answer that I love to work on the lathe. I know this to be true for many other woodworkers too. My father, for one, loves his lathe; though he rarely needs to use it. There is just something about turning wood that calls to the craftsman. How about you? Is the lathe a toy or a tool?

I hate computers, I love wood!

So we had a disaster over here at the office. The computer we use for both the blog and for running the actual online store, Woodtoolstore.com, blew up. Quite literally, I was working on the site - adding items and bringing you more great tools at discount prices - when, pop, it sounded like a small handgun went off. Components actually exploded!

Why am I telling you this? Simple, as we were repairing (and replacing), the old machine I started comparing working with wood to working with computers. Now, I am a woodworker by trade, so I might be biased but wood is so much better to work with. Wood working brings joy to the craftsman. Sure from time to time you might get a little frustrated if you make a mistake, but that is the low end. Most of the time, wood working is producing a thing of beauty, and you can see the fine product slowly forming in your hands. Computers . . . well frustration is the de facto emotion! At best you are nervous that something is going to crash, at worst you see the blue screen of death and feel like tossing the infernal contraption through the window.

Looking inside the machine all I saw was a mess of wires and components. It was an ugly sight. By comparison, I relish the opportunity to peek inside a fine piece of carpentry. I love to see the structure and frame. I take joy in spying the tricks and techniques of another craftsman.

In the end, I need computers . . . I love wood.

From Firewood to Furniture

Every woodworker knows that finding just the right source for your wood can be tricky. The lumber store sometime just doesn't have what you want. Recently I had the most unusual experience.

I was at a relative's home. They had a big pile of firewood in the yard. We happened to be standing near the pile having a conversation but my eyes kept drifting to the wood pile. Finally he asked what I was looking at. In the woodpile were several huge logs, both long and wide, and even from the end cut I could tell the grain was spectacular. It was just another log to him.

In the end, I came home with some choice pieces of birch in my vehicle. I wasn't sure exactly what I wanted to do with them so they sat for quite a while in my shop. Eventually a project presented itself.

I had to make useable lumber from what was essentially raw timber. Of course, the first thing I did was reach for the woodworkers first solution. I made a jig. I made a jig for the band saw so that I could cut nice 5/4 and 3/4 stock off the logs - slightly oversized of course. Next I cut my edges on the table saw. Once I had my rough lumber it was a simple matter of running them through the planer and jointer to make some of the best birch lumber I have used in years.

Becuase I was working with the source material I was able to nicely bookmatch my panel. I also had more than enough material so I was able to waste some in order to get the angles on the grain just perfect. In the end I produced a fantastic birch piece with the best looking grain patterns that have come out of my workshop in a long time. There would have been no way that I could have produced the same result with store bought lumber.

Never let your eyes rest. You never know when you are going to come across your next piece of timber.

Spring Sale at our Store

As you know, The Everyday Woodworker is brought to you by Woodtoolstore.com . We are just letting you fine woodworkers know that we are having our spring sale on right now. Save on woodworking tools like table saws, routers, circular saws, cordless drills, and air tools. Check out our expectional price on this brad nailer.

Now, back to the woodworking tips and tricks.

Starving the Joint of Glue

Years ago, when I first started woodworking, I was often advised that you should not make a joint too tight. A too tight joint would 'starve' for glue. It seemed reasonable that a joint that was too tight would force the glue out leaving an insufficient amount to form a good bond. Plus, it had a good sounding catch phrase, "Don''t starve the joint."

I went years believing this. The problem was that over time experience started to speak against it. I just never found it to be true.

As often happens, just when I was really starting to question this long held belief I stumbled across an article that addressed this very issue. I was in line at my local hardware store flipping the pages of a woodworking magazine, as I often do at the hardware store. It happened to be a copy of "Fine Woodworking Magazine". The article was primarily about testing different glues, but in the process they tested joint fit as well. Their conclusion: starving the joint of glue was a myth. The over tight joints were no weaker than the good fit. Of course, in their test they had all the tight joints the same; milled to scientific perfection. They were not "crazy tight".

I decided to do a more unscientific and much more satisfying test myself. I made a series of joints from snug to insanely tight. I'm talking the kind of joint that can only be called bad workmanship. Several of them broke merely because they didn't actually fit together. None the less I made up a sufficient sample to satisfy myself.

With some creative shop work I rigged up a tester and went to it. Broken wood was flying everywhere! It was fun. It also proved to support the findings in Fine Woodworking Article. Over tight joints were not weaker than snug ones. In fact, they were often stronger. Of course, the over tight joints had a host of other problems, most notably the wood split from the excess pressure of the over sized tenon.

My conclusion: starving a joint of glue is a myth!

Cope and Stick Door Joints

In the world of cabinet making the frame-and-panel door dominates the industry. For good reason, it solves the age old problem of warping and cracking caused by wood movement that one sees in solid wood doors. I doubt there is a need to argue the benefits of this method of constructing cabinet doors. What I do want to discuss is the method of jointing the frame.

In modern cabinet making it has become immensly common to use a cope-and-stick joint. A cope-and-stick joint is made by machining a profile into the stile that both trims the edge and accomodates the the panel. A matching reversed profile is cut into the end of the rail. These profiles are generally made with a matched set of router bits or a reversable router bit. Cope-and-stick joints are easy to workwith, assuming you have the appropriate tools. They are quick to cut once you are set up and provide large amounts surface area for gluing. This makes them very popular.

There is a weakness to this joint, however, that is rarely talked about. In the joint the profile edge funtions as a both a short tenon and a mortise wall. The problem is that this tenon has been cut thin and short with the pressure pushing parallel to the grain instead of against it. This creates a weak spot in the joint. I've drawn up a picture to demonstrate this. A door like this, with hard use will eventually fail.

Does that mean that you should never use a cope-and-stick joint? No, of course not. But you should consider reinforcing it in some way. Either, you can use a plywood panel and glue the panel in (which is odd considering the whole reason for the creation of the frame-and-panel door). Or you can reinforce with dowel or some other such device. I find that long dowels when placed well can actually look good - a bit of a stand out feature on the door edge.

Making Do

Every woodworker wishes he had the New Yankee Workshop at his diposal. If only we all had the budget of a national television series to purchase tools with. Norm Abram has it all! Yet, for the most of us, a decked out workshop is a dream we pursue for a life time. We buy tools one at a time as we need them. In the end, sometimes we just have to make do.

There are lots of tricks that we woodworkers use to get a job done when we don't have the right tools. Here are a couple of my favorites:

Router as jointer - when laminating up panels a good edge is essential. If you don't have a jointer, use your router. A straight cutting bit and a very carefully set fence on the router table make a perfect jointer replacement.

Make a jig - long before I had any panel raising bits for my router I was raising panels on my table saw. I built an adjustable jig to hold the panels upright while I pushed them through a tiped blade. I've found that just about any problem in the workshop can be solved with a jig. I've made jigs for the router, the table saw, the drill press, the rotary arm saw and so many more.

If at long last you finally decide to buy a tool but still have a tight budget, sometimes you can find great deals on the internet. Check out our store at Woodtoolstore.com. Our whole purpose is to supply woodworkers at reasonable prices.

The Home-Made Wood Filler - Use With Caution

From time to time a particular woodworking tip pops up that is okay, but should really be tempered a bit. It is a suggestion that people use a home-made wood filler. The formulation and application are simple enough: mix glue and saw dust (no shortage of that), make a paste, and use it as a wood filler.

Now, this can work. With a fine saw dust you can make a good paste that is easy to work with and fills holes. It is tough and dries fairly quickly depending on the glue. It even blends quite well, assuming you used the saw dust from the wood you are filling.

The problem comes when the filler is in a visible location on a project that is going to be stained. When the filler is first applied it looks good. However, when it comes time to finish your project you will find that your handy dandy home-made wood filler won't take stain! Just like a run-away glue drip.

So, take heed. The home-made filler is fine on unfinished or painted projects, however, hold off on using it on your fine wood stained pieces.

The Cheap Dado Cutter

I have purchased several dado cutter sets for my table saw. Some work great, others are mediocre. What baffles me is the price I paid for them. The price just never seemed justified. I mean really, what are you getting? Usually two saw blades and a handful of chippers that are really only partial saw blades.

So, for years I have debated the idea of just stacking up a bunch of regular blades. If you search around the Internet you can find this issue debated fairly strongly with little consensus. I finally decided to take the plunge and give it a try. I headed to the store and bought a pile of cheap matching blades, went home and fiddled with them for a couple of hours.

My results were great. I got dados that were every bit as good as the ones I make with my professional (and expensive) dado sets. I had all the little cardboard spacers from my pro sets, but I also tried to make a couple myself. It was easy to make fine width adjustments (as easy as it is with the pro sets).

The concern you will find bantered about is that the solid blade won't clear the wood chips like the chipper does and the blade set will get clogged. I found this to be quite untrue. I offset my blades carefully and never had any trouble. I could get clogged blades if I tried. And, doing my due diligence I did try. If I intentionally misaligned the blades and pushed the wood through fast and sloppy, sure enough the blades would have little wood chips wedged in the tight cracks. Lets face it though, the first rule of woodworking is to take your time and do the job right. I have no pity for the woodworker who finds himself in this situation, it is their own fault.

The one thing I would like to mention is that stacking up several blades does let the weight add up. Don't overdo it or you might strain your table saw motor. Also, be warned, with all that mass the blades have more momentum. It takes a lot longer than normal for the blades to spin down to a stop once you have turned your saw off. Pay attention and work safe.

Looking for saw blades online chech out woodtoolstore.com.

Old Man Oak

Long have I discussed wood with my father and my father-in-law. In these discussions I have found one thing to be universally true: they love oak. I don't. I really don't like it at all. I have a long list of woods I would rather work with and look at before oak. Frankly, I find it unattractive. Both its color (I'm thinking of the commonly available red oak here) and its overbearing grain put me off.

Armed with this awareness, I went out into the world and probed the opinions of many, many others. I discovered an interesting thing. There is a generational divide in wood preference. People over the age of say . . . 55 love oak. For them it is the grandest of woods. If on the other hand you are orbiting your mid-thirties chances are you would prefer almost any other wood over oak. For the young, oak is like bell bottom pants and polka-dots, the foolishness of a generation gone by.

It is an odd phenomenon. It is strange that something as varied as wood preference would be so strictly generational. I've yet to delve deeply into collective conscious of my elder generation to discover why this is, but I will say this: if you are planning a project, either as a job or a gift, keep the age of the client in mind. You will be surprised how often the age-oak love correlation holds true.

Edging Plywood the Better Way

As promised, I'm answering the question left open from the last post. If you don't use iron-on edge tape, how do you edge plywood?

There are three good answers to this question. Which method you use depends on the project.

The first method is simple solid wood edging. This is the quality finish that the edge tape is trying to imitate. In essence you are cutting a 1/4" strip and glueing it on the edge. You can vary your thickness but I have always found that 1/4" just looks the best. Unless you are going for a nice bold edge, maybe 3/4", I have found that varying too far from the 1/4" just looks odd (if you are going for a larger edge, like 3/4", you are better off using one of the tongue and groove methods outlinded below). Obviously follow good woodworking practices. Run your stock through the jointer before ripping off your strip then glue that perfect edge to the plywood. Also cut the width a little over sized so that you can take it down to perfection with a block plane. Use a good quality glue. You can clamp it down but you might be able to get away with using a good quality masking tape. Depending on where the finished piece is in your project you might even be able to get away with tacking it with your brad nailer. This method produces a good quality edge that holds and takes stain well.

The second method is ideal for times when really want to hide the joint of the edge strip. When done with care the edge joint almost disappears completely. I call it V-ing. It involves cutting your strip in a v-shape and your plywood with a v-shaped groove. If done carefully, your joint ends up precisely on the corner and disappears. Set your table saw from 20-30 degrees. If your saw has a notch or setting at 22.5 degrees use that, otherwise 25 degrees is easy to remember. In order to get the cut precisely in the middle scribe a line on a sacraficial fence (a high quality marking guage is a blessing here). Advance your blade (while spinning) so that it enters the fence just a hair below the line. Do a test run. If it looks good (a tiny flat spot is okay, far better than being off center) go ahead and run all your edging through both ways making v's. Without changing the blade's angle transfer the fence to the other side of the saw (swap your sacrifical fence over too). Now cut some test runs on some scrap. You may have to adjust the height of the saw a bit. Once the bevel meets nicely (a tiny gouge in the deep part of the ve is okay) you can cut the edges of your plywood. Finally, bring the saw back to 90 degrees and cut the edge strips off the stock. Glue them up and your seem is almost invisible at the corner of your sheet.

Finally, if you have a project that you want a large, bold edge on you can use a tongue and groove. Making a tongue and groove is simple and intuitive so I won't go through the process here. Just take your time and run test pieces to get it perfect. If your edge is on the smaller size put the groove in the plywood and the tongue on the solid wood edge for strength. If the edge is quite large you can go ahead and reverse that if you want. A third option presents itself here as well. If you have a large enough edge to take a groove you might consider grooving both and using a 1/4" plywood spline. This is by far the easiest and quickest tongue and groove setup and is plenty strong.

Between these three methods, you can achieve any look you want and have quality plywood edging. Like everything else, once you do it a few times you will find these methods simple effective.

The Downfall of Veneer Trim Tape.

Plywood is a marvelous thing. Many modern woodworking projects would be impossible without it. It does, however, come with a persistent problem. What do you do with that ugly edge?

Enter the iron on edge tape. It seemed to be an innovative solution. Small strips of veneer with a pre-glued side that could be attached with a regular household iron. The perfect solution!

Not even close. I have just finished the last project I will ever do with iron on veneer tape. After years of growing dissatisfaction I have come to the conclusion that this is an inferior product and inferior solution to the plywood edge problem. What follows is my long list of beefs with this product.

1) The glue. I get it, I really do . . . a pre-applied hot wax glue is very convenient. Frankly, though, it just stinks as a glue. How many times to you use a hot glue gun in wood construction? Never, and for good reason. It is simply not the appropriate glue for the job.

2) Heat issues. Following from the last issue is the fact that you heat the glue to apply it. More specifically you heat the wood to apply it. Any time you apply heat to somethings you are bound to get warping issues. When using veneer tape you heat it, it warps, you press it on in its warped form then let it cool. As it cools it un-warps (or warps in a different manner) putting stress on the tape.

3) Lifting. Combine the heat warping with the already inferior glue and tape lifting and peeling become extremely common. I can't count the number of times I have come across veneer edging that is lifting away. I've seen it in both amateur and pro, both hand and machine applied construction.

4) Cutting to size. The tape comes over sized. For good reason, you need to accommodate a variety of plywood thicknesses. However, that means you have to trim it down to size once you have glued it on. I have multiple tools designed to do this, none do it well. I've tried knives and chisels, I've used my flush trimming router, nothing does a great job. This is partly due to the fact that the tape is too thin, partly due to the grain direction on the tape, and partly a host of other problems. This is not to say that you can't get a good edge, you can; it just takes time and patience. And here is the crux of it, it takes enough time that I could have done a different edge finish and got a better result in the same time frame.

5) Staining. The final problem with the trim tape is, in my mind, the irredeemable failure of the product. It does not take stain well. On a light or natural stain this is unnoticeable, but as soon as you use a dark stain . . . oi! The color you get from two coats on a sheet of plywood veneer might take five coats to achieve on the veneer edge tape. I'm not sure why this is, whether is is the wax glue saturating the wood and closing its pores or what, but I have found it to be universally true. It doesn't matter the type of wood or the type or color of stain, it just doesn't match the rest of the project. For this I have no tolerance.

For all these reasons, and a few more that need not be mentioned I am abandoning the use of veneer edge tape. What will I do instead? Well, that is another post.