From time to time a particular woodworking tip pops up that is okay, but should really be tempered a bit. It is a suggestion that people use a home-made wood filler. The formulation and application are simple enough: mix glue and saw dust (no shortage of that), make a paste, and use it as a wood filler.
Now, this can work. With a fine saw dust you can make a good paste that is easy to work with and fills holes. It is tough and dries fairly quickly depending on the glue. It even blends quite well, assuming you used the saw dust from the wood you are filling.
The problem comes when the filler is in a visible location on a project that is going to be stained. When the filler is first applied it looks good. However, when it comes time to finish your project you will find that your handy dandy home-made wood filler won't take stain! Just like a run-away glue drip.
So, take heed. The home-made filler is fine on unfinished or painted projects, however, hold off on using it on your fine wood stained pieces.
Showing posts with label Woodworking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Woodworking. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Monday, May 4, 2009
The Cheap Dado Cutter
I have purchased several dado cutter sets for my table saw. Some work great, others are mediocre. What baffles me is the price I paid for them. The price just never seemed justified. I mean really, what are you getting? Usually two saw blades and a handful of chippers that are really only partial saw blades.
So, for years I have debated the idea of just stacking up a bunch of regular blades. If you search around the Internet you can find this issue debated fairly strongly with little consensus. I finally decided to take the plunge and give it a try. I headed to the store and bought a pile of cheap matching blades, went home and fiddled with them for a couple of hours.
My results were great. I got dados that were every bit as good as the ones I make with my professional (and expensive) dado sets. I had all the little cardboard spacers from my pro sets, but I also tried to make a couple myself. It was easy to make fine width adjustments (as easy as it is with the pro sets).
The concern you will find bantered about is that the solid blade won't clear the wood chips like the chipper does and the blade set will get clogged. I found this to be quite untrue. I offset my blades carefully and never had any trouble. I could get clogged blades if I tried. And, doing my due diligence I did try. If I intentionally misaligned the blades and pushed the wood through fast and sloppy, sure enough the blades would have little wood chips wedged in the tight cracks. Lets face it though, the first rule of woodworking is to take your time and do the job right. I have no pity for the woodworker who finds himself in this situation, it is their own fault.
The one thing I would like to mention is that stacking up several blades does let the weight add up. Don't overdo it or you might strain your table saw motor. Also, be warned, with all that mass the blades have more momentum. It takes a lot longer than normal for the blades to spin down to a stop once you have turned your saw off. Pay attention and work safe.
Looking for saw blades online chech out woodtoolstore.com.
So, for years I have debated the idea of just stacking up a bunch of regular blades. If you search around the Internet you can find this issue debated fairly strongly with little consensus. I finally decided to take the plunge and give it a try. I headed to the store and bought a pile of cheap matching blades, went home and fiddled with them for a couple of hours.
My results were great. I got dados that were every bit as good as the ones I make with my professional (and expensive) dado sets. I had all the little cardboard spacers from my pro sets, but I also tried to make a couple myself. It was easy to make fine width adjustments (as easy as it is with the pro sets).
The concern you will find bantered about is that the solid blade won't clear the wood chips like the chipper does and the blade set will get clogged. I found this to be quite untrue. I offset my blades carefully and never had any trouble. I could get clogged blades if I tried. And, doing my due diligence I did try. If I intentionally misaligned the blades and pushed the wood through fast and sloppy, sure enough the blades would have little wood chips wedged in the tight cracks. Lets face it though, the first rule of woodworking is to take your time and do the job right. I have no pity for the woodworker who finds himself in this situation, it is their own fault.
The one thing I would like to mention is that stacking up several blades does let the weight add up. Don't overdo it or you might strain your table saw motor. Also, be warned, with all that mass the blades have more momentum. It takes a lot longer than normal for the blades to spin down to a stop once you have turned your saw off. Pay attention and work safe.
Looking for saw blades online chech out woodtoolstore.com.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Old Man Oak
Long have I discussed wood with my father and my father-in-law. In these discussions I have found one thing to be universally true: they love oak. I don't. I really don't like it at all. I have a long list of woods I would rather work with and look at before oak. Frankly, I find it unattractive. Both its color (I'm thinking of the commonly available red oak here) and its overbearing grain put me off.
Armed with this awareness, I went out into the world and probed the opinions of many, many others. I discovered an interesting thing. There is a generational divide in wood preference. People over the age of say . . . 55 love oak. For them it is the grandest of woods. If on the other hand you are orbiting your mid-thirties chances are you would prefer almost any other wood over oak. For the young, oak is like bell bottom pants and polka-dots, the foolishness of a generation gone by.
It is an odd phenomenon. It is strange that something as varied as wood preference would be so strictly generational. I've yet to delve deeply into collective conscious of my elder generation to discover why this is, but I will say this: if you are planning a project, either as a job or a gift, keep the age of the client in mind. You will be surprised how often the age-oak love correlation holds true.
Armed with this awareness, I went out into the world and probed the opinions of many, many others. I discovered an interesting thing. There is a generational divide in wood preference. People over the age of say . . . 55 love oak. For them it is the grandest of woods. If on the other hand you are orbiting your mid-thirties chances are you would prefer almost any other wood over oak. For the young, oak is like bell bottom pants and polka-dots, the foolishness of a generation gone by.
It is an odd phenomenon. It is strange that something as varied as wood preference would be so strictly generational. I've yet to delve deeply into collective conscious of my elder generation to discover why this is, but I will say this: if you are planning a project, either as a job or a gift, keep the age of the client in mind. You will be surprised how often the age-oak love correlation holds true.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Edging Plywood the Better Way
As promised, I'm answering the question left open from the last post. If you don't use iron-on edge tape, how do you edge plywood?
There are three good answers to this question. Which method you use depends on the project.
The first method is simple solid wood edging. This is the quality finish that the edge tape is trying to imitate. In essence you are cutting a 1/4" strip and glueing it on the edge. You can vary your thickness but I have always found that 1/4" just looks the best. Unless you are going for a nice bold edge, maybe 3/4", I have found that varying too far from the 1/4" just looks odd (if you are going for a larger edge, like 3/4", you are better off using one of the tongue and groove methods outlinded below). Obviously follow good woodworking practices. Run your stock through the jointer before ripping off your strip then glue that perfect edge to the plywood. Also cut the width a little over sized so that you can take it down to perfection with a block plane. Use a good quality glue. You can clamp it down but you might be able to get away with using a good quality masking tape. Depending on where the finished piece is in your project you might even be able to get away with tacking it with your brad nailer. This method produces a good quality edge that holds and takes stain well.
The second method is ideal for times when really want to hide the joint of the edge strip. When done with care the edge joint almost disappears completely. I call it V-ing. It involves cutting your strip in a v-shape and your plywood with a v-shaped groove. If done carefully, your joint ends up precisely on the corner and disappears. Set your table saw from 20-30 degrees. If your saw has a notch or setting at 22.5 degrees use that, otherwise 25 degrees is easy to remember. In order to get the cut precisely in the middle scribe a line on a sacraficial fence (a high quality marking guage is a blessing here). Advance your blade (while spinning) so that it enters the fence just a hair below the line. Do a test run. If it looks good (a tiny flat spot is okay, far better than being off center) go ahead and run all your edging through both ways making v's. Without changing the blade's angle transfer the fence to the other side of the saw (swap your sacrifical fence over too). Now cut some test runs on some scrap. You may have to adjust the height of the saw a bit. Once the bevel meets nicely (a tiny gouge in the deep part of the ve is okay) you can cut the edges of your plywood. Finally, bring the saw back to 90 degrees and cut the edge strips off the stock. Glue them up and your seem is almost invisible at the corner of your sheet.
Finally, if you have a project that you want a large, bold edge on you can use a tongue and groove. Making a tongue and groove is simple and intuitive so I won't go through the process here. Just take your time and run test pieces to get it perfect. If your edge is on the smaller size put the groove in the plywood and the tongue on the solid wood edge for strength. If the edge is quite large you can go ahead and reverse that if you want. A third option presents itself here as well. If you have a large enough edge to take a groove you might consider grooving both and using a 1/4" plywood spline. This is by far the easiest and quickest tongue and groove setup and is plenty strong.
Between these three methods, you can achieve any look you want and have quality plywood edging. Like everything else, once you do it a few times you will find these methods simple effective.
There are three good answers to this question. Which method you use depends on the project.
The first method is simple solid wood edging. This is the quality finish that the edge tape is trying to imitate. In essence you are cutting a 1/4" strip and glueing it on the edge. You can vary your thickness but I have always found that 1/4" just looks the best. Unless you are going for a nice bold edge, maybe 3/4", I have found that varying too far from the 1/4" just looks odd (if you are going for a larger edge, like 3/4", you are better off using one of the tongue and groove methods outlinded below). Obviously follow good woodworking practices. Run your stock through the jointer before ripping off your strip then glue that perfect edge to the plywood. Also cut the width a little over sized so that you can take it down to perfection with a block plane. Use a good quality glue. You can clamp it down but you might be able to get away with using a good quality masking tape. Depending on where the finished piece is in your project you might even be able to get away with tacking it with your brad nailer. This method produces a good quality edge that holds and takes stain well.
The second method is ideal for times when really want to hide the joint of the edge strip. When done with care the edge joint almost disappears completely. I call it V-ing. It involves cutting your strip in a v-shape and your plywood with a v-shaped groove. If done carefully, your joint ends up precisely on the corner and disappears. Set your table saw from 20-30 degrees. If your saw has a notch or setting at 22.5 degrees use that, otherwise 25 degrees is easy to remember. In order to get the cut precisely in the middle scribe a line on a sacraficial fence (a high quality marking guage is a blessing here). Advance your blade (while spinning) so that it enters the fence just a hair below the line. Do a test run. If it looks good (a tiny flat spot is okay, far better than being off center) go ahead and run all your edging through both ways making v's. Without changing the blade's angle transfer the fence to the other side of the saw (swap your sacrifical fence over too). Now cut some test runs on some scrap. You may have to adjust the height of the saw a bit. Once the bevel meets nicely (a tiny gouge in the deep part of the ve is okay) you can cut the edges of your plywood. Finally, bring the saw back to 90 degrees and cut the edge strips off the stock. Glue them up and your seem is almost invisible at the corner of your sheet.
Finally, if you have a project that you want a large, bold edge on you can use a tongue and groove. Making a tongue and groove is simple and intuitive so I won't go through the process here. Just take your time and run test pieces to get it perfect. If your edge is on the smaller size put the groove in the plywood and the tongue on the solid wood edge for strength. If the edge is quite large you can go ahead and reverse that if you want. A third option presents itself here as well. If you have a large enough edge to take a groove you might consider grooving both and using a 1/4" plywood spline. This is by far the easiest and quickest tongue and groove setup and is plenty strong.
Between these three methods, you can achieve any look you want and have quality plywood edging. Like everything else, once you do it a few times you will find these methods simple effective.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
The Downfall of Veneer Trim Tape.
Plywood is a marvelous thing. Many modern woodworking projects would be impossible without it. It does, however, come with a persistent problem. What do you do with that ugly edge?
Enter the iron on edge tape. It seemed to be an innovative solution. Small strips of veneer with a pre-glued side that could be attached with a regular household iron. The perfect solution!
Not even close. I have just finished the last project I will ever do with iron on veneer tape. After years of growing dissatisfaction I have come to the conclusion that this is an inferior product and inferior solution to the plywood edge problem. What follows is my long list of beefs with this product.
1) The glue. I get it, I really do . . . a pre-applied hot wax glue is very convenient. Frankly, though, it just stinks as a glue. How many times to you use a hot glue gun in wood construction? Never, and for good reason. It is simply not the appropriate glue for the job.
2) Heat issues. Following from the last issue is the fact that you heat the glue to apply it. More specifically you heat the wood to apply it. Any time you apply heat to somethings you are bound to get warping issues. When using veneer tape you heat it, it warps, you press it on in its warped form then let it cool. As it cools it un-warps (or warps in a different manner) putting stress on the tape.
3) Lifting. Combine the heat warping with the already inferior glue and tape lifting and peeling become extremely common. I can't count the number of times I have come across veneer edging that is lifting away. I've seen it in both amateur and pro, both hand and machine applied construction.
4) Cutting to size. The tape comes over sized. For good reason, you need to accommodate a variety of plywood thicknesses. However, that means you have to trim it down to size once you have glued it on. I have multiple tools designed to do this, none do it well. I've tried knives and chisels, I've used my flush trimming router, nothing does a great job. This is partly due to the fact that the tape is too thin, partly due to the grain direction on the tape, and partly a host of other problems. This is not to say that you can't get a good edge, you can; it just takes time and patience. And here is the crux of it, it takes enough time that I could have done a different edge finish and got a better result in the same time frame.
5) Staining. The final problem with the trim tape is, in my mind, the irredeemable failure of the product. It does not take stain well. On a light or natural stain this is unnoticeable, but as soon as you use a dark stain . . . oi! The color you get from two coats on a sheet of plywood veneer might take five coats to achieve on the veneer edge tape. I'm not sure why this is, whether is is the wax glue saturating the wood and closing its pores or what, but I have found it to be universally true. It doesn't matter the type of wood or the type or color of stain, it just doesn't match the rest of the project. For this I have no tolerance.
For all these reasons, and a few more that need not be mentioned I am abandoning the use of veneer edge tape. What will I do instead? Well, that is another post.
Enter the iron on edge tape. It seemed to be an innovative solution. Small strips of veneer with a pre-glued side that could be attached with a regular household iron. The perfect solution!
Not even close. I have just finished the last project I will ever do with iron on veneer tape. After years of growing dissatisfaction I have come to the conclusion that this is an inferior product and inferior solution to the plywood edge problem. What follows is my long list of beefs with this product.
1) The glue. I get it, I really do . . . a pre-applied hot wax glue is very convenient. Frankly, though, it just stinks as a glue. How many times to you use a hot glue gun in wood construction? Never, and for good reason. It is simply not the appropriate glue for the job.
2) Heat issues. Following from the last issue is the fact that you heat the glue to apply it. More specifically you heat the wood to apply it. Any time you apply heat to somethings you are bound to get warping issues. When using veneer tape you heat it, it warps, you press it on in its warped form then let it cool. As it cools it un-warps (or warps in a different manner) putting stress on the tape.
3) Lifting. Combine the heat warping with the already inferior glue and tape lifting and peeling become extremely common. I can't count the number of times I have come across veneer edging that is lifting away. I've seen it in both amateur and pro, both hand and machine applied construction.
4) Cutting to size. The tape comes over sized. For good reason, you need to accommodate a variety of plywood thicknesses. However, that means you have to trim it down to size once you have glued it on. I have multiple tools designed to do this, none do it well. I've tried knives and chisels, I've used my flush trimming router, nothing does a great job. This is partly due to the fact that the tape is too thin, partly due to the grain direction on the tape, and partly a host of other problems. This is not to say that you can't get a good edge, you can; it just takes time and patience. And here is the crux of it, it takes enough time that I could have done a different edge finish and got a better result in the same time frame.
5) Staining. The final problem with the trim tape is, in my mind, the irredeemable failure of the product. It does not take stain well. On a light or natural stain this is unnoticeable, but as soon as you use a dark stain . . . oi! The color you get from two coats on a sheet of plywood veneer might take five coats to achieve on the veneer edge tape. I'm not sure why this is, whether is is the wax glue saturating the wood and closing its pores or what, but I have found it to be universally true. It doesn't matter the type of wood or the type or color of stain, it just doesn't match the rest of the project. For this I have no tolerance.
For all these reasons, and a few more that need not be mentioned I am abandoning the use of veneer edge tape. What will I do instead? Well, that is another post.
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